dining in sicily
From the mobile dessert cart in Palermo pictured above to the elegant restaurant in Catania that Alfredo selected for our final dinner of the tour, we enjoyed many wonderful meals and snacks. We also enjoyed many group meals, beginning with our opening night dinner in Palermo, and including lunches at an agriturismo, Maria Grammatico's pastry school near Erice, a picnic next to the Salt Museum on Mozia, and the Benanti Winery, as well as a pizza dinner in Taormina, informal market tastings during a Palermo walking tour thanks to Alfredo, and an excellent dinner in the beautiful gardens of Baglio della Luna.
During our free time, we enjoyed meals at smaller restaurants based on recommendations from the Rick Steves' Sicily guide, a list of restaurants recommended by a friend of our son's who visits Sicily often (see below), or just because we were hungry and they were convenient. I am not a very adventurous eater, but always make an effort to sample local specialties. For me that meant arancini, panelle, and local fish. Roger made a point of trying cannoli and tiramisu from as many different places as possible. We also bought a case of wine from Benanti to be shipped home. It's been such a trip down memory lane every time we open a bottle, especially during Western Washington's typical cold, rainy winter.
During our free time, we enjoyed meals at smaller restaurants based on recommendations from the Rick Steves' Sicily guide, a list of restaurants recommended by a friend of our son's who visits Sicily often (see below), or just because we were hungry and they were convenient. I am not a very adventurous eater, but always make an effort to sample local specialties. For me that meant arancini, panelle, and local fish. Roger made a point of trying cannoli and tiramisu from as many different places as possible. We also bought a case of wine from Benanti to be shipped home. It's been such a trip down memory lane every time we open a bottle, especially during Western Washington's typical cold, rainy winter.
Pizza Dinner, Taormina At Benanti Winery Visiting the Ortigia market
Lunch and baking lesson with Maria Grammatico Buddy dinner at Baglio della Luna Last night of the tour, Catania
We learned the special rolling technique used to form the cone-shaped almond cookies pictured above at Maria Grammatico's School. We are pretty sure she called them nun's titties but haven't been able to confirm that online or in our Sicilian cookbooks. Perhaps they are a little too racy for most cookbooks?
restaurants Recommended by a frequent visitor to the island
These were all recommended by a friend of our son's. We ate at those with an asterisk, and all were excellent.
Ortigia
*A PUTIA DELLE COSE BUONE Via Roma 8 |
This is a family affair with great, highly rated food. Go early, it is small, popular and doesn’t take reservations.
CASEIFICIO BORDEREI Via Emmanuele de Benedictus, 6 |
Fabulous place for amazing sandwiches in the market – right next to Fratelli Burgio.
CORTILE VERGA Via della Maestranza, 33 | Euro-style cocktail bar with small bites in a romantic courtyard.
DIONISO Via Claudio Maria Arezzo, 29 |
A family restaurant with wonderful food. Their updates of traditional dishes are amazing, as is the pistachio flan.
KANTUNERA – Via Trento 37 +39 | Not far from the Temple of Apollo, this is highly rated for food and wine. The food is influenced by the chef’s travels but based in the traditions of Sicily.
*EVOÈ WINE BAR SHOP Via della Maestranza 56, |
Everything is done with attention to detail, from the glassware and vintage clay tile plates, to the food. Wonderful selection of wine and small plates.
Catania
OSTIER VINOTECCA Via Vittorio Emanuele, 81 |
Terrific food and locally sourced ingredients. Great wine selection.
*MeCUMPARI TURIDDU Piazza Turi Ferro 36-37-38 |
This slow food restaurant is more expensive than the average, but worth it. The menu is full of regional specialties. The chef is wonderful and takes this food to another level. Alfredo took the group here for our last dinner.
*SAVIA Via Etnea, 300/302/304 | Via Umberto, 2/4/6 |
Don’t buy arancini or cannolo anywhere else! Savia also serves amazing ice creams, granita, and pastries.
IL SALE ARTE CAFÉ Via Santa Filomena, 10/12 |
Hip, modern, pizzeria, with other delicious food at reasonable prices.
SAPIO L’ESTETICA DEL GUSTO – Via Messina 235 (betw. Viale Ionio & Corso Italia, San Giovanni LiCu]) |
Exquisite dining from a Michelin star chef and his wife. Excellent wine list. Located on the edge of the city but worth a taxi ride, it’s one of the top meals I’ve had anywhere.
TANTIKKIA Via Gisira, 28
A favorite of my (meaning my son's friend) sommelier friend this place has nice food and is not fussy.
WINE & CHARME Via Vittorio Emanuele, 139 | +39 095 321 773
Fabulous enoteca and specialty food shop; great place to buy products to take home - they ship, too.
Ortigia
*A PUTIA DELLE COSE BUONE Via Roma 8 |
This is a family affair with great, highly rated food. Go early, it is small, popular and doesn’t take reservations.
CASEIFICIO BORDEREI Via Emmanuele de Benedictus, 6 |
Fabulous place for amazing sandwiches in the market – right next to Fratelli Burgio.
CORTILE VERGA Via della Maestranza, 33 | Euro-style cocktail bar with small bites in a romantic courtyard.
DIONISO Via Claudio Maria Arezzo, 29 |
A family restaurant with wonderful food. Their updates of traditional dishes are amazing, as is the pistachio flan.
KANTUNERA – Via Trento 37 +39 | Not far from the Temple of Apollo, this is highly rated for food and wine. The food is influenced by the chef’s travels but based in the traditions of Sicily.
*EVOÈ WINE BAR SHOP Via della Maestranza 56, |
Everything is done with attention to detail, from the glassware and vintage clay tile plates, to the food. Wonderful selection of wine and small plates.
Catania
OSTIER VINOTECCA Via Vittorio Emanuele, 81 |
Terrific food and locally sourced ingredients. Great wine selection.
*MeCUMPARI TURIDDU Piazza Turi Ferro 36-37-38 |
This slow food restaurant is more expensive than the average, but worth it. The menu is full of regional specialties. The chef is wonderful and takes this food to another level. Alfredo took the group here for our last dinner.
*SAVIA Via Etnea, 300/302/304 | Via Umberto, 2/4/6 |
Don’t buy arancini or cannolo anywhere else! Savia also serves amazing ice creams, granita, and pastries.
IL SALE ARTE CAFÉ Via Santa Filomena, 10/12 |
Hip, modern, pizzeria, with other delicious food at reasonable prices.
SAPIO L’ESTETICA DEL GUSTO – Via Messina 235 (betw. Viale Ionio & Corso Italia, San Giovanni LiCu]) |
Exquisite dining from a Michelin star chef and his wife. Excellent wine list. Located on the edge of the city but worth a taxi ride, it’s one of the top meals I’ve had anywhere.
TANTIKKIA Via Gisira, 28
A favorite of my (meaning my son's friend) sommelier friend this place has nice food and is not fussy.
WINE & CHARME Via Vittorio Emanuele, 139 | +39 095 321 773
Fabulous enoteca and specialty food shop; great place to buy products to take home - they ship, too.